When it comes to metal edging, there are many options on the market, but one certainly stands out from the crowd. FormBoss Metal Garden Edging. It is strong and durable, yet flexible enough prior to installation to allow you to create any shape you want! By far the most popular product for both homeowners and tradies alike, FormBoss™ unique collection of products set them apart from the alternatives.
FormBoss™ comes in 8 different profile heights. You can create flush defining profiles, retaining walls, planter beds or steps, depending on your application there’ll most likely be something to suit. As well as their unique Cor-ten range, FormBoss™ is available in galvanised, ZAM® (blend of Zinc, Aluminium and Magnesium) and can even be produced in Stainless if required.
FormBoss™ is stronger than aluminium and traditional edging materials. It holds its shape for many years and we have options to suit all types of strength requirements.
Create the shapes you want, from intricate curves to endless straight lines, even right angle bends without a cut and join. Create flawless arches down to 400mm radius on site with our rubber forming strip, or down to 650mm radius without it!
Create a seamless line with virtually invisible joins. All fixings are concealed under the soil level. You end up with distinguished clean lines and clear contrasts throughout your design, every time.
Steel does not crack, split, rot, dint or invite termites and we guarantee all our edging systems for 10 years! It will also stay in shape better than most edging systems.
The rolled top lip on all of our systems conceals the connectors and stakes, and leaves you with a rounded top lip that’s completely safe for both kids and pets. We’ve sold edging to many different schools Australia wide.
Suitable for footpaths, driveways, retaining walls, garden beds, tree rings, planter beds, water tank bases, formwork, grass barriers, creative gardens and steps. We supply three finishes, eight different heights and four different gauges (steel thicknesses), you’re only limited by your imagination!
Cheaper than plate steel, aluminium and concrete edging. FormBoss™ will save you from reinstalling the same traditional edging systems every couple years or so, so you’ll actually save money and backache by installing FormBoss™ just the once.
Easy to Install
Anyone can do it! No experience necessary. Take a look at our installation video, it’s much easier than you even think. Doesn’t matter whether you’re installing into an existing garden or starting from the start.
Heights available: 75mm, 100mm, and 150mm, 185mm, 230mm, 290mm, 390mm and 580mm.
1.6mm, 2.0mm & 2.5mm gauge steel.
FormBoss™ comes with a 5.5mm, 6.5mm or 7.5mm rounded top safety edge depending on your gauge.
Available in 3 different finishes including galvanised, Corten, or exclusive ZAM® steel (by special request only).
Or paint your steel whatever colour you desire, click here to find out how.
Premium ZAM® Steel Edging
Premium ZAM® Steel Edging
Developed by a large Japanese corrosion research and development team and extensively tested by the French corrosion institute, ZAM® was engineered for the automotive industry and designed for countries with the harshest weather conditions.
Galvanised Steel Edging
Australian Made Galvanised Steel Edging
Our Australian made BlueScope, hot dipped Galvanised steel edging has a structural guarantee of 10 years, ensuring your confidence when purchasing and installing FormBoss in your garden. Galvanised steel will appear shiny and spangled when first purchased, however after a year or so the shine will dull down to a matte grey.
BlueScope REDCOR® Steel Edging
BlueScope REDCOR® Steel Edging
Weathering steel is often generically referred to as “Corten” due to the long standing trademark COR-TEN® owned by U.S. Steel. In 1935 this copper steel alloy was developed by to eliminate the need for painting large bridge structures. “Corten” steel forms a stable rust-like appearance when exposed to the weather.
FormBoss™ comes in 8 different profile heights. You can create flush defining profiles, retaining walls, planter beds or steps, depending on your application we’ll most likely have something to suit.
The general rule of thumb for installing FormBoss edging is a minimum of one third of the profile height should be buried under the soil. This gives it amazing strength and allows you to install into both new and existing gardens with ease. We have compiled a chart to try and make selecting your edging as easy as possible.
Max Height Above Soil
ZAM Steel gauges
Gal Steel gauges
REDCOR Steel gauges
Standard Stake Guide
Flush installations (1-2cm high edge)
Standard lawn borders of various strengths
1.6mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm
Separating turf, low garden beds
1.6mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm
Grass barriers, low garden beds
Steps, grass barriers, garden beds
Garden beds, planter beds, steps, grass barriers
Garden beds, planter rings, low retaining walls
Raised planter rings and small retaining walls
Installing your edging with more of the profile in the ground will result in a stronger application. If you are burying the edging more than 80%, with the exemption of the 75mm & 100mm edging, you can get away with using less or even no stakes.
Installation without burying . It is possible to install FormBoss™ directly on top of the soil without burying it when you are installing a tight diameter circle. They are self supporting shapes.
Rooftop gardens. For rooftop gardens you generally install FormBoss™ with brackets so it’s actually sitting slightly higher than the slab. This allows for drainage. Use brackets instead of stakes.
Our 1.2kg mallets cater to all your stake bashing needs. The dead blow allows you to knock all your stakes in without damaging them. It also allows you to tap your edging down to your desired height once it’s all fixed together.
Rubber Forming Strip
Stretch the rubber strip out, and push it under the FormBoss folded top lip along the whole length of edging. It should stay there because it will expand when you let it go, if it doesn’t, try it again with a second person. It works best when you have two people to stretch the forming strip out. If it won’t stay put just tape it to both ends. Once you have done this you will now be able to shape the edging more aggressively without kinking the top lip. This reduces the minimum shaping radius by hand from around 1.2m to around .8m, depending on the users previous experience. Rubber forming strips are highly recommended to all first time FormBoss users who are planning tight curves. The forming strip can be used again and again, simply pull it from out of the top safety lip once your edging piece is shaped.
Cold Gal Spray Paint
Want to have the most thorough of installations to ensure your edging will be there long into the future? Make sure to purchase a can of cold gal spray with your order. You’ll need to spray any areas where you have exposed the bare metal. This will include area’s that have been both cut and screwed. The cold gal will conceal the cut edges with a zinc coating protecting the steel from oxidation.
Wide Brimmed Vice Grip
This clamp is used for both connector pieces and stakes. Simply adjust the end cap to leave approximately 10mm gap between the end plates. Then clamp the edging. It works best when the clamp is extremely tight. This leaves little room for the connector plates to slide around while you’re fixing them, and makes piloting the screw incredibly easy. If it’s a bit loose, take it off and tighten it before use.
You will need some form of clamp, the wide brimmed vice grip works best from our experience, but most clamps will do the trick.
8mm Magnetic Hex Head Driver
This is the piece you will need to fix your self tapping screws. If you don’t have one already you’ll need one.
Installation Tools That Are NOT Stocked by Greenlines, But Still Recommended
To get the best result we highly recommend screwing all your stakes and connectors to the edging. This will ensure your installation is still looking great in years to come. Impact drivers work well at getting the screw through as quick as possible, although just about any drill will work.
String Line, Chalk, or Marking Paint
Ever tried to get perfect straight lines but messed up because you were just working by eye? Using a string line can ensure that you get straight lines as dead straight as possible. Simply make sure the string line is taut just above the edging line, and loosen the soil directly below for your edging to be laid in.
Chalk and marking spray will help for those designs that need to be precisely constructed.
Angle Grinder or Hack Saw
You will need to cut the edge when you come to the end of your line. An angle grinder is the easiest way to get a straight cut, however a hacksaw will do the job just fine. Be sure to mark the edging off at 90 degrees with a marker before cutting.
After cutting your edging, you’ll need to file the cut edge to remove the burr created by cutting. This bur can be very sharp, make sure you are wearing gloves while filing.
Spade, Pickaxe or Hand Mattock
Before laying your edging in the ground you will need to loosen up the soil. The best tool comes down to user preference.
Before cutting any edges you’ll need to make sure it’s square to ensure it joins as cleanly as possible.
You’re going to need this to mark your edging before each cut. It will also help you if you are doing any custom jobs.
This will help you measure up before you order, and will also assist you plotting out your installation.
The FormBoss™ rolled top lip is what allows connections to be as clean as possible.
Simply get your smart connector, making sure the rolled lip is at the bottom, and slide one of your lengths halfway so the lip is pinching the edge top and bottom.
FormBoss™ allows you to have flawless uninterrupted lines with all the connections, stakes and fixings hidden under the soil level!
You’ll have to make sure that it’s square in order to get the cleanest connection possible.
Push both lengths tightly together and clamp them there for best results.
From our experiences a wide brimmed vice clamp works best (as seen below)
Clamp your edging and insert two self tapping screws through either side of the connection.
For profiles over 185mm you will need to insert two screws either side of the connection instead of just one.
You can also cut up your offcuts to get the same smart connectors.
When we cut up connectors we grind off the sharp burr created by cutting, and the cold gal spray paint the exposed edges to ensure longevity.
You are strongly advised to file off all sharp edges and cold gal spray paint any exposed bare metals for maximum longevity.
Connectors and screws are included FREE with every order. We’ll work out how many you need when you order!
All screws supplied by us are self tapping, no need to predrill, just apply an even pressure and they’ll work their way through the steel by themselves.
Connecting on a Sloping Block
Sometimes, when the land is rising or sloping, it is difficult to maintain a consistent edging height.
FormBoss™ makes it incredibly easy to connect edges on uneven blocks of land.
To connect on a sloping or rising block (in this case sloping):
1. Judge the angle of the slope by laying a piece of edging either side of the change of gradient. Just lay them on top of the soil slightly overlapping the steel at one end.
2. Get a pen and mark the edging where it overlaps. Note that this can work whether you’re dipping the edging or raising it, both methods remain the same.
3. Cut along the line with an angle grinder or hack saw, and join as per usual with a normal smart connector. It always helps to have a good clamp.
4. Lastly, install as you would usually, taking care to cover up the screws with the soil level.
Try repeating this process two or more times to get a more subtle change of angles.
Try putting an angle on any of your edges to give it a tapered effect. It can look really great in the larger sizes of edging! You can also just push one end of the edging flush into the ground to get a fading out effect.
Connect Different Profiles
A tapered edge can look elegant and bold, it really separates your garden from the rest.
To achieve a dramatic tapered edge follow these steps.
1. Decide how dramatic you would like the edging sloping. This will determine what profile heights you will chose. the bigger the difference between the two profiles, the steeper the slope will be.
I’ve used a 100mm piece, and a 150mm piece in this picture. This will give you a nice gentle slope.
2. Connect the larger smart connector to the larger edge with your supplied self tapping screws.
3. Connect the shorter profile as you would usually.
4. Lay in the ground on an angle, taking care to make sure your screws are below the soil level.
Tip* Your stakes will still work the same as usual, just make sure to tap them in so the top of the stake is on a similar angle to your edging
There are a few differences when installing FormBoss™ edging profiles over 290mm high. It may take a bit more work than our general edging systems but looks fantastic once installed.
Retaining Edging Profiles: 290, 390, 580.
Raised planter beds in any shape you desire, or straight.
Root barriers for stopping invasive grasses
Curving Profiles Over 290mm High:
You can actually shape our large edging profiles more aggressively than the lower heights without kinking the top lip. This is because the length of edging has significantly more steel, giving it a more rigid backbone. It can help to have a friend help shape the edging, especially with the last 20cm or so, it is quite hard to get a tight curve into the last little bit as there isn’t any leverage. You can always shape your edges, cut off the last little bit, and use it as a connector if you find you can’t get enough shape into the last 20cm.
Producing Corners & Angles:
It can be quite difficult to produce angles on site with these larger profiles, as they are significantly stronger. We highly recommend that you purchase a pre-made corner piece to keep the installation as simple as possible.
If you do need to produce an angle on site it can be achieved by clamping a timber to the edging exactly where you want your angle, you’ll also need to fix the body of the edging onto a surface (such as a strong bench) with a clamp. Now lever the edging up as far as you can, it can be handy having a friend since it is so strong. If you give the angled area a few whacks with a rubber mallet the angle will tighten.
The standard ‘triangle’ taped stakes are not strong enough to support these profiles. This is why we’ve developed our ‘L’ profiled angled stakes, they still slot up under the lip of edging, but are much stronger.
They’re available in a range of different lengths to suit your project, and can be easily cut down to size if they are too long. It is highly recommended that you use a rubber mallet to knock the stakes in instead of any metal hammers as they will dent the steel. You will need to use two self tapping screws per angled stake as opposed to the usual one.
Connect your retaining edges in the same way you usually would, although you’ll need to insert two screws either side of the connector as opposed to the usual one. Clamping the edging whilst putting your screws in becomes a bit more important to ensure it doesn’t move whilst screwing.
The 580mm high edging can bow in the belly slightly since the profile is so high and because of the steels flexibility. Instead of inserting extra screws which can look ugly, try popping in a couple pop rivets half way up your profile for a nice clean finish.
There are multiple methods of increasing the life of your edging systems, it is most important that you make an effort to improve the drainage and water penetrability to the largest profile heights, as they will have the most water build up. You can void your 10 year structural warranty if you ignore this
Depending what you’re trying to achieve, there are a range of staking options available for FormBoss™ Metal Garden Edging systems. The general rule of thumb for selecting the right stake is making sure the stake is more than twice the profile height as a minimum.
1. The first option is the tapered stake. It’s ideal for edging profiles up to 150mm high, and works great at strengthening and anchoring most standard applications.
For general applications we strongly recommend 3 stakes spaced out evenly per length of steel (2.44m). This works out to be every 813mm. Generally you’ll just place one in the centre and one at each end about 400mm from your connection.
They are available in:
240mm, 300mm & 400mm heights
Galvanised 2.5mm gauge, Corten 2.00mm gauge & stainless by special request
2. The second option is the angled stakes. These stakes are specially manufactured to suit both higher strength jobs and retaining applications.
Generally you space angled stakes at the same *3 per length (every 813mm). If you have a high strength job such as a straight 400mm retaining wall, or steps of any size, it is highly recommended to increase the quantity to *4 per length, this will work out to be every 610mm. If you’re steps are narrow you’ll need a minimum of 1 angled stake per side. You insert the top lip of the stake under the lip of the edging the same as you would for the tapered stakes.
They are available in:
400mm, 600mm, 800mm & 1200mm heights.
Galvanised 2.5mm gauge, Corten 3.0mm gauge & stainless by special request
It’s important that you use a rubber mallet to knock these stakes in. A metal hammer will fold the top lip of the stake over and make it impossible to insert it under the lip of the edging.
Sometimes, especially for the 1200mm stakes, it is necessary to pre dig out the area where the stake is going. A motorized post hole digger is fantastic for the 12oomm stakes, fill your hole up with concrete if you want the strongest retaining wall possible.